Wednesday, 2 April 2014

The Everyday Contour...

Recently I've seen a lot of attention towards contouring, now I'm no make up artist nor am I Kimmy K, I don't have the time every morning to take a contour and a high light shade and map out my face like a pre-op face lift, I just like a bit of natural shadow to frame my chubby cheeks for blush and occasionally if I fancy around my temple and jaw line, I do this over foundation.

There are 100s of posts and videos on the true art of contouring so I'm not going to attempt my muddled explanation of how to do it properly, I can however share my thoughts on my favourite products and tool to do so. Choosing the right product can be difficult...

Firstly lets keep the orange bronzers in the drawer along with shimmer bricks, contouring is meant to mimic shadow and create depth, you need a grey/ash/cool matte shade. I can only speak on my experience with contouring and my skin tone which is in MAC NW10-15. I am pretty pale , not the palest snow white pale but pale non the less.

The products I find that work best on my milky complexion are ;

From top to bottom -

Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo in Heliopolis & Lumos - Now I love the highlighter in this palette its so finely milled and undectable but In the light it shimmers so beautifully - its a sophisticated shimmer, no glitter ball here.
 On to the contour shade Heliopolis, it can be rather muddy if over applied so take a light handed approach with this one, the same rule applies to all 3 of these products, take a small amount of the product wipe almost all onto the back of your hand and build this way there is no war paint effect. This one is a winner and I'd say it works on the ghostly pale up to a light tan complexion.

MAC Powder Blush in Harmony - This is my favourite. There I said it. Why? its just perfect, it is highly pigmented so although the swatch makes it look quite scary its buildable - again this is key. A tiny amount slowing builded gives a perfect finish, I'd say this one can look slightly warmer on me but its the easiest to use and less likely to go wrong in my opinion.

Illamasqua Cream Pigment in Hollow - Again another amazing product from Illamasqua, this is definalty the greyest so i apply carefully and lightly to give the best contoured effect, I save this one for nights out or when I have more time, it is cream but its quite hard so it needs warming and buffing in to give a natural finish, you can't just swipe it on and go you will look like you need a wash or gone a bit heavy with the fake tan.

The MAC 109 - The perfect contour brush. This brush allows you to pick up a small amount of product and blend blend blend, I never get a stripe with this brush, its rounded head and shape allow for small circular motions to perfectly add contour in a precise yet soft way. Its mistake proof if you don't over load it.

from left to right - Illamasqua Heliopolis , MAC Harmony , Illamsqua Hollow.

My method - Now again as I mentioned I'm no make up artist this is just what works for me for a easy day time nod to contouring. I simply take a small amount of product I allow my brush to simply kiss the chosen shade then I tap off any excess then place just under my cheek bone, with circular motions I buff the product in,  swiping the brush up and down my cheek bone, I don't go too far down as taking the contour shade to far in can look a little masculine, I tend to go no further in then the corner of my eye, like I said I like it subtle for day to day, I then add a little more product right in my hair line and blend out, its not mega noticeable but its there and just adds that little extra something.

so that's my interpretation of a classic technique - its not the real way but its my everyday way.

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